petak, 31. listopada 2014.

Working in pairs

This week we started doing hairstyles on each other. I've never done someone's hair before and there is a big difference with working on a doll and on a real person. I'm still not 100% comfortable and confident with styling other people's hair. I get scared that I will burn their face or head when using heat, just like I've burned my forhead that very morning. This is why I didn't attempt to do the Elizabethan hairstyle on my partner just yet. 
My partner for the final assesstment is Greta. Her hair is wavy, just below the shoulder lenght. I wanted to see how much volume I can get just by crimping her hair and if the effect will be different, as I've only crimped straight hair before. At first, her hair looked quite flat. But after brushing it and with a bit of backcombing I managed to get the volume I was aiming for. 
Now I feel much more confident with styling real hair. Next time we do this, I will definitely go into more detail and try to decorate the hair with curls and plaits. 
 Before crimping
 After crimping
 The look after brushing her hair
The final look
30th Oct 2014 (all images above)

subota, 25. listopada 2014.

Padding & Shaping

The Elizabethans loved big hair and lots of volume. They used different shaped pads, backcombed their hair and wore hairpieces and wigs. By looking at their portraits we can se that the hair was usually round or heart-shaped. It was, and still is, important that while doing these kind of hairstyles both sides are identical, unless the look you are going for is asymmetric.
Preparation of the hair is also very important, whether you crimp it or curl it. That way you can shape the hair just how you want it to be and get more volume.

Padding 
For padding we used tights stuffed with paper tissues. First you curl and crimp the hair. I curled the front, so I can use the curls as decoration and crimped the rest, to cover the pad. After crimping, you can brush through if you want more volume, but then the hair will loose a bit of definition, so I just used my fingers. To secure the pad, make a braid where you want to place it and use grips to hold it in place. Make sure the pad doesn't show under the hair. 
I decided to do only half of the hair, to see the difference between both sides. Also I tried streching the front curls, to see which hairstyle I prefer, but I like it more when the curles aren't streched.

 Curling the front section
 Crimping 
 Placing the pad
Covering the pad 
Covering the pad at the back
The final look with streched curls
The final look with curls
20th Oct 2014 (all images above)

Backcombing & Shaping
I tried the backombing technique to see if the resault will be better than when using the pad. I prefer the padding because it is easier to make the shape, but backcombing is good when you want to get the same effect quickly.  
I curled the front of the hair by using grips and a straightener, and crimped the rest. I brushed it, which in the end, I realized it wasn't the best idea, as you couldn't really see the difference between the curled and crimped hair. But I like the volume it gives to the hair and it is easy to get the shape you want. I backcombed 2/3 of the part that I crimped and used the rest to cover and make it look smoother. 
 Crimping and curling
 After backcombing
 After brushing the curls
 The final look- front and back
The final look - both sides
23rd Oct 2014 (all images above)

četvrtak, 16. listopada 2014.

Curling, Crimping & Frizzing

This week we went through three different curling techniques; curling with tongs, crimping and crimping with hair grips. Anne Boleyn use to have straight hair but when Elizabeth came to the trone, the fashion changed and frizzy hair was a must. They used hot tongs to curl their hair, so the only thing that changed since then is that ours are electical and you can adjust the heat.
Anne Boleyn
(source: http://conorbyrnex.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/the-downfall-of-anne-boleyn.html)

Queen Elizabeth 
(source: http://www.ilovehistory.co.uk/?tag=video)

Curling with tongs
The key to achieve the perfect curls is to hold the curling tong vertically as closest to the hair root. That way the curl will have a nicer shape. Also, the smaller the sections the tighter the curls. After you curled a section, make sure you hold it in place with a hair grip, the curl will be tighter and last longer.
Curling 
                                                                 
                                                                                                 Final look 
The look after brushing the curls
13th Oct 2014 (all images above)


Crimping
Crimping is easy, as long as you hold the hair straight you will get a nice effect. Personally, I don't like the way it makes the hair look quite unnatural, but I like how much volume you can get.
I am thinking of using this technique for my project;  it gives the hair nice texture and the hairdos you can create are very elizabethan.
Crimping
Hair after crimping
Hair after using a brush
(13th Oct 2014 all images above)

Crimping with hair grips & straightener
I've never heard about this technique before, but always wondered how to get the curls looking like this. I am guessing Elizabeth I used to do this too, just without the straightener.


Queen Elizabeth I
(source: http://www.picpicx.com/elizabeth-i-of-england/)

It's simple. You twist the hair around the hair grip, from one side to another. Again, the tighteness of the curl depends on how big the sections are. Then you secure the end with a pin and hold the straightener for about 5 seconds. Take out the grip and you have a lovely curl. 
 Hair twisted around hair grips
 Using the straightener
 Hair after taking the grips out
Frizzy hair 
16th Oct 2014 (all images above)

utorak, 14. listopada 2014.

Elizabethan Hair

In the Elizabethan era people were very hair-conscious refered to hair as their most prized possession. As it was with the clothing and makeup; the wealthier you were, the bigger and better your harstyles were. The key was to attract attention and success in court. Mens hair and beards were equally importaint as womens hair was. They spent hours and hours waiting in line to get their hair done, and you could get almost any look you wanted. Cost was not an issue for the upper class, but lower classes had to do their own hair.

Young women wore their hair down, which was a sign of their purity and virginity. It meant they were not married and that they're ready to be. It was a favourited look for a bride on her wedding day and they would usually put flowers in.  Once they were married, they would wear it in a bun.

The fornt sides of the hair received most attention as it was the area that was mostly displayed. Fringes were not in fashion, they combed the hair away from the forehead making a centre parting. The hairstyles were characterized by high, frizzed hair (favoured by the Queen) and often placed over wires or pads to create a heart-shaped frame aroud their head. Women wore a lot of hairpieces; hair net was the most popular. Hair nets for royalty were made out of silk (gold trimmings and jewles were added) and poor women made their out of crepe. In 1545 first metal hairpins were invented. Hairpins and combs were added to the net gave the hair a better look. Also, they emphasized the look by wearing pointed hats.

There were quite a few different hats in fashion; the coif, french hood, attifet, caul and the pillbox style hat.

(source: http://web.comhem.se/~u31138198/whitecap.html)
A Coif (the 'biggin') was worn by all children. It was a closed fitting cap tied under the chin. Material was plain white linen; royalty used to decorate theirs with blackwork embroidery. Coifs were used to keep hair in place under more elaborate hats.
(source: http://conorbyrnex.blogspot.co.uk/2014_03_01_archive.html)
The French Hood is a half moon or crescent style band or brim sloping away from the face. The edges were usually decorated with glass jewles or pearls and a veil covered the back of the hair. The French Hood was introduced from the French court by Anne Boleyn, Elizabeths mother.


(source: http://www.gogmsite.net/the_middle_1500s_-_1550_to_/1589-lady-elizabeth-walshe-.html)
The Attifet was similar to the French Hood but it had a heart-shaped crescent. Lace trimmings were added as decoration. 
(source: http://trystancraft.com/costume/2011/07/15/elizabethan-hairstyles-1560-1600/)
A Coul covered the hair at the back of the head. It was the Elizabethan hair net; it was made out of fabric or fabric covered by netted cord. 
(source: http://www.larsdatter.com/blackwork.htm)
The Pillbox Hat often had a veil attached to the back.

Rich Women dyed their hair yellow or red. They would sit in the sun all day because they believed it would add a golden glint to it. Women who dyed their hair would wear hats without crowns with a brim, over which they would spread the hair. The brim protectet the womans face from the sun. The dye was made from a mixture of oil, cumin seed, saffron and celandine. Because the products they used on their hair made their hair eventually fall out, wigs and hair pieces became very popular around 1572. Queen Elizabeth owned more than eighty, these are often referred as Periwigs. There is a rumor that the natural hairpieces were made out of horse hair or even children's hair.

At that time, shampoo was not avalible and most people didn't bathe. They cleansed their hair dry by backombing it with a fine-textured clay powder (first dry shampoo!) that absorbed dirt and oils. Women with light hair used a white powder or flower and those who had darker hair used a violet powder. 

nedjelja, 12. listopada 2014.

Braids & Buns





   Hairstyles inspired by the Elizabethan Era
(source: Tumblr)

Last week we started looking at Elizabethan hairstyles, as it's an important part of our first assignment. We started learning from the basics; a french, fishtail and a normal braid and a high bun (without using a donut). I knew how to do a fishtail braid but never tryed a french one before, but it's easy once you get used to the technique. Personally, it was quite of a challenge to do the bun, as all 4 sides had to be the same shape and size to create a nice roud bun. But practice makes perfect, hopefully I'll get there soon.
French Braid
6th Oct 2014
Fishtail Braid
6th Oct 2014
 Normal Braid
6th Oct 2014
Bun
6th Oct 2014
 A hairstyle using 2 french braids
9th Oct 2014
A hairstyle using 2 french braids and a fishtail 
9th Oct 2014