utorak, 14. listopada 2014.

Elizabethan Hair

In the Elizabethan era people were very hair-conscious refered to hair as their most prized possession. As it was with the clothing and makeup; the wealthier you were, the bigger and better your harstyles were. The key was to attract attention and success in court. Mens hair and beards were equally importaint as womens hair was. They spent hours and hours waiting in line to get their hair done, and you could get almost any look you wanted. Cost was not an issue for the upper class, but lower classes had to do their own hair.

Young women wore their hair down, which was a sign of their purity and virginity. It meant they were not married and that they're ready to be. It was a favourited look for a bride on her wedding day and they would usually put flowers in.  Once they were married, they would wear it in a bun.

The fornt sides of the hair received most attention as it was the area that was mostly displayed. Fringes were not in fashion, they combed the hair away from the forehead making a centre parting. The hairstyles were characterized by high, frizzed hair (favoured by the Queen) and often placed over wires or pads to create a heart-shaped frame aroud their head. Women wore a lot of hairpieces; hair net was the most popular. Hair nets for royalty were made out of silk (gold trimmings and jewles were added) and poor women made their out of crepe. In 1545 first metal hairpins were invented. Hairpins and combs were added to the net gave the hair a better look. Also, they emphasized the look by wearing pointed hats.

There were quite a few different hats in fashion; the coif, french hood, attifet, caul and the pillbox style hat.

(source: http://web.comhem.se/~u31138198/whitecap.html)
A Coif (the 'biggin') was worn by all children. It was a closed fitting cap tied under the chin. Material was plain white linen; royalty used to decorate theirs with blackwork embroidery. Coifs were used to keep hair in place under more elaborate hats.
(source: http://conorbyrnex.blogspot.co.uk/2014_03_01_archive.html)
The French Hood is a half moon or crescent style band or brim sloping away from the face. The edges were usually decorated with glass jewles or pearls and a veil covered the back of the hair. The French Hood was introduced from the French court by Anne Boleyn, Elizabeths mother.


(source: http://www.gogmsite.net/the_middle_1500s_-_1550_to_/1589-lady-elizabeth-walshe-.html)
The Attifet was similar to the French Hood but it had a heart-shaped crescent. Lace trimmings were added as decoration. 
(source: http://trystancraft.com/costume/2011/07/15/elizabethan-hairstyles-1560-1600/)
A Coul covered the hair at the back of the head. It was the Elizabethan hair net; it was made out of fabric or fabric covered by netted cord. 
(source: http://www.larsdatter.com/blackwork.htm)
The Pillbox Hat often had a veil attached to the back.

Rich Women dyed their hair yellow or red. They would sit in the sun all day because they believed it would add a golden glint to it. Women who dyed their hair would wear hats without crowns with a brim, over which they would spread the hair. The brim protectet the womans face from the sun. The dye was made from a mixture of oil, cumin seed, saffron and celandine. Because the products they used on their hair made their hair eventually fall out, wigs and hair pieces became very popular around 1572. Queen Elizabeth owned more than eighty, these are often referred as Periwigs. There is a rumor that the natural hairpieces were made out of horse hair or even children's hair.

At that time, shampoo was not avalible and most people didn't bathe. They cleansed their hair dry by backombing it with a fine-textured clay powder (first dry shampoo!) that absorbed dirt and oils. Women with light hair used a white powder or flower and those who had darker hair used a violet powder. 

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